(c) 2009 Dow Jones & Company, Inc. Reproduced with permission of copyright owner. Further reproduction or distribution is prohibited without permission.Shorting Carolina Herrera
When shorts began appearing as dressy clothing on runways a year ago, it wasn't surprising that young people picked up on them. But Carolina Herrera has deemed them suitable for Park Avenue dames and the rest of her well-heeled customers.
Herrera sent dressy shorts down her runway in a variety of cuts and fabrics -- from a trim minimalist design in a sturdy silken material to cuffed and pocketed shorts of suiting fabrics. Wince at your own risk -- I am fully able to visualize these shorts in many offices (though perhaps not if you're a tax accountant). These shorts would be dressier and more appropriate than many of the silk-jersey dresses that women wear to work.
Neutral colors, rich textures, embroidery,and braided and tied belts, worn with a variety of outfits, were also standouts Monday. As usual, everything looked like it cost a million bucks -- pure Herrera, doing what folks expect.
Zac Posen Skips the '80s
Ladies, if the '80s ain't your thang, rejoice at Zac Posen.
"Skinny shoulders! Skinny shoulders!" an exuberant Posen shouted backstage before his spring 2010 runway show on Monday morning. He was responding to my question about poofy shoulders and other '80s looks we've been seeing this week, but he barked it out like a call to order.
"No '80s. We're living 20 years later," Posen said firmly.
The show was a mass of optimism and color -- vivid greens, pinks and mustard yellows -- with feminine shapes. Posen's skill at flattering shapes showed in a pink coat with contrasting fabric panels at the torso that cut inward to minimize the waist. Other notables included a graceful green gown printed with a couple of huge pink flowers. A fringed gown with horizontal green stripes recalled the ease of the summertime '70s.
DVF's Crafted Collection
One way to gauge a designer's prominence is by the fame quotient of the front row. At Diane von Furstenberg's shows, the star-wattage extends as far back as the fourth row. Editors who are normally front-row elsewhere were pushed back for the A-list Sunday, including Graydon Carter, Candace Bergen, Rachel Zoe and "Gossip Girl" stars Blake Lively and Kelly Rutherford.
DVF's spring "Oasis" collection featured layered print-on-prints in saturated earth and jewel tones. The sartorial and cultural references were also stacked on top of each other; the gold-coin beaded leather harem shift that closed the show suggested both African tribal and Roman-era motifs. Safari-ready jackets were belted over doubled-up animal prints.
-- Elva Ramirez
Credit: By Christina Binkley
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